Cobra XR-1010 User Manual Page 11

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XR250L Project
September ‘94
Page 11
Spark Plug and Resistor
Use an NGK DPR9Z spark plug, the same as the XR plug, if you do any of the
intake, carb, or exhaust system mods. Remove the resistor in the spark plug
cap and replace it with a piece of stainless steel. I cut the head off of a #10-24
stainless steel bolt and cut the bolt to the right length.
As a side note, the September ‘83 issue of Cycle World had an article that
advised using a brass or copper rod as a replacement for the resistor. I did just
that in my ‘86 XR250R. Just out of curiosity, I checked the brass rod in my XR
to see what it looked like after five years of use. It was black and had a very
high surface resistance. An engineer buddy told me that brass and copper
oxidize at high temperatures. The new advice from my engineer buddy is to
use stainless steel.
Protection
I don’t plan to ride in the rocks very much with my XR-L (I’ll use my XR for
that). I mounted a blue plastic Maier skid plate over the stock aluminum
brush guard. Gordo plans to ride everything with his XR-L, so he’s holding out
for an MS red anodized aluminum skid plate. It completely replaces the
aluminum brush guard and is the hot setup for rough riding.
Maier blue plastic skid plate .................................... CHAP 63005
MS red anodized aluminum skid plate .....................MS 268-405
Big Red - the Ultimate
In early ‘92, Gordo, of the NASA budget, had Powroll do a 330 cc bore and
stroke job on the XR-L for about $500. After a dyno run, he put in a main jet
three sizes larger but otherwise made no other changes. Gordo says the bike
isn’t appreciably faster. However, on steep, gnarly hills, it never runs out of
bottom end, and pulls and pulls.
330 bore and stroke................................................. Pow
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